DxO Optics Pro automatically adjusts all of these parameters to produce an optimized rendering during batch processing, thus saving users a significant amount of time.
Increased compatibility with XMP standard
With the aim of facilitating its workflow with Lightroom, DxO Optics Pro v9.5 offers greater compatibility with the XMP standard: star or color rankings stored in image metadata are now perfectly preserved during transfer.
More than 18,000 available Optics Modules
DxO Optics Pro supports most current camera models on the market. DxO Optics Pro v9.5 now handles RAW files from 5 additional cameras: the Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark II, the Nikon 1 V3, the Panasonic Lumix GH-4, and the Sony A6000.
Finally, 165 new camera/lens combinations have been added to the library, which today counts more than 18,000 available DxO Optics Modules.
DxO ViewPoint v2.1.6 now available
DxO ViewPoint v2.1.6 also benefits from the addition of new camera/lens combinations for automatic correction of distortion in JPEG and TIFF images.
Both DxO Optics Pro v9.5 and DxO ViewPoint v2.1.6 are now available at authorized photo resellers.
List of new DxO Optics Modules:
Canon | Nikon | Panasonic | Sony
B&H carries DxO Optics Pro 9 and DxO ViewPoint 2.
|Item||Compare At||Sale Price|
|Lexar Professional 128GB 1066x CompactFlash Memory Card||$484.95||$284.95|
|Lexar Professional 64GB 1066x CompactFlash Memory Card||$192.55||$92.95|
|Lexar Professional 32GB 1066x CompactFlash Memory Card||$107.35||$64.95|
|Lexar Professional 16GB 1066x CompactFlash Memory Card||$49.95||$69.95|
|Lexar Professional 256GB Class 10, 600x SDXC UHS-I Memory Card||$399.00||$294.95|
|Lexar Professional 128GB Class 10, 600x SDXC UHS-I Memory Card||$135.95||$94.95|
Check out the full list of deals (2-pages, including many 2-pack deals) at Adorama.
Triggers and Receivers
All in all, I'm happy with how the image turned out. While I did leave some gear on the table (several umbrellas, gridded strip boxes, another beauty dish, etc), I think the image serves its purpose – to honor the man that inspired me light the world in front of my camera.
You can find the full-resolution image here.
On top of this, I always make use of chemical heat packs. They are easily the best solution for cold fingers, which is the greatest challenge in winter photography. I use four at a time and stuff them inside my thin gloves as well as the overmitts. If I’m only going to use them for a short period of time, then I will seal them in a zip top bag to stop the reaction and enable them to be reused later.
If you are standing outdoors in extreme wind or cold and need to use ski goggles, then your biggest difficulty will be keeping them free of fog and ice. I have heard that Smith goggles with a battery-powered fan are excellent at this, and I’m going to try them out next season.
A self-portrait in my full winter kit, on the frozen tundra of northern Manitoba
A winter sunrise shot, taken with a tilt-shift lens and a graduated neutral-density filter.
After the shoot
When packing up, I remove the lens and attach the caps to both the lens and camera body. Then I seal the camera in a zip-top bag before bringing it indoors. I leave the lenses and other gear inside my camera bag, and when I bring them indoors I am careful not to open the bag for several hours until it has warmed up to room temperature. This will avoid condensation or ice formation on your equipment. The camera will warm up faster in the separate plastic bag. Once it is at room temperature you can remove it from the plastic bag and open the compartments to access the memory card and battery. If you are in a hurry to access your memory card, then remove it from the camera outdoors before you put it in the plastic bag. But seal the card in a case, to warm it up separately and prevent condensation from affecting the contacts.
If the temperature outdoors is mild (-10 C or warmer) then the camera will have no trouble being outdoors all day long. If you are photographing from one location (such as on a wildlife shoot), keep the camera outside until the end of the day. The battery should experience very little power loss at that temperature.
Photographing from a vehicle
When taking wildlife photos in the winter, it is often beneficial (and more comfortable) to stay inside the car. Your car is a portable blind, and animals are usually a lot more likely to stick around if you shoot from the window. However an unexpected issue can arise, due to warm air flowing out of the window when you open it. Your backgrounds will appear noticeably mottled, and your subject might also lose some sharpness from the refraction. The solution is to turn off your heater fan, and open all the windows when you are shooting. Yes this will make the inside of the car a lot colder, so be prepared by dressing appropriately and wearing thin gloves. Don’t forget to shut off your car engine as well. You’ll eliminate vibrations, and the silence will enhance the experience you are having with the wild animal.
Moose, photographed from my car.
Winter can be a fantastic time for photography, and being properly prepared can make it all the more enjoyable. As always with photography, practice helps immensely, so don’t hesitate to get out there and make the most of a cold-weather day.
You can check out http://www.huyerperspectives.com/ for many more images captured in cold weather!
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